At sea again
Thursday
(pencilled in later: After leaving Durban posted Cape Town)
(pencilled in later: 8th March 1917)
Dear Mum,
Last letter I wrote was written just before we were going into port (Durban). I found I couldnt write from shore so sent a little book of views without any names etc. to show where we were. I couldnt wire, No soldiers were allowed to. I believe Miss Paramore got one through as Miss Allan knew the censor. All letters posted on shore were censored & all civilian letters are censored. You mustnt expect any wires atall. I dont know whether we will even be able to send one. All letters from this part of the world are kept for a month or so. We have done a record trip so far & are a day ahead of time. You have no idea of the care they are keeping taking. False sailing notices, slippering Slipping out by dark etc. we feel very safe now, and very important. Still “Nurse” (escort) as we call her is rather a nuisance. She has to be saluted when ever she passes but everyone standing to attention round the decks.
Please excuse this writing, I have left my fountain pen down stairs and this is a mid Victorian with chopsticks.
We got into port on Tuesday. There was no land in sight when we went down to breakfast. When we came up a slight mist lifted and we saw ourselfs only about ten miles from a very high grand coast. Think of comming coming across the water for a three fortnight and striking the exact place not a yard out. There was no excitement atall when land was hove in sight. I suppose because everyone realised gradually that land was quite close. When we sighted a little bit of Australia after having being out of sight of land for about two day although only a speck in the sea everyone went mad with excitement. It wasnt a very warm day, when we and the sea was quite calm. As we got closer we could see the land rose from beaches very sharply into very rugged hills about 2000ft high, everything looking very green and well cultivated. The harbour is in dredged river The mouth of which is sheltered by a breakwater running a running out from a high green headland with a very big light on the top.
You run nearly a mile up the a river, like the Yarra except there were very few ships there, at the top is quite a large turning basin. There is just one very wharf running along one side. It has some huge crains all along it. The centre of the town I about two miles from what they called the docks. We were alongside by 11. At 1.30 everyone was en disembarked. We couldnt be given leave that night from the wharf as it would upset the traffic too much so were marched up to the city, about 2 miles. It was a very hot, muggy day, a typical Sydney day in Summer. We w had all had enough by the time we were finished. The first thing that struck me was the tremendous number of natives there. I afterwards learnt there were three times as many blacks as whites. There are ricshaws everywhere.
Friday (9.3.17)
Thousands of them and the men dressed most wonderfully, with huge bufflow horns. And a big headdress of feathers. Their clothes are most brif brilliant & any parts of their bodies showing are painted in wonderful designs, real nightmares. They run with a most peculuar stride wabbing from side to side nearly enough to make you sick. They have The Ricshaws have a little wheel behind and every-now and then the man will rest by kicking you right back onto this wheel and himself going up with the shafts and resting there while the whole concern runs along. One of the first things I saw after dismissal was nine of our men in three ricshaws, they are only built for one, having a race down the main Street, the men all whipping their men as hard as they could with riding whips.
Please visit Australian Army Museum of Western Australia to see a photo of one of the rickshaws Arndell mentions – click link here
I wouldnt like [word scribbled out] (nearly a mistake) their the climate there from the specimen we got. It was the first day to I got had unpacked my drills. Yesterday was very hot too but this morning is quite chilly again. The town is not by any means large (Durban). The European population is only about 30 000. It has here and there buildings as fine as any in Melbourne but the streets on the whole are about the standard of Liverpool street. Everything looks dingy and dirty and most buildings are made of either concrete or red brick. The town is built on the edge of the harbo harbour which is really the a saltwater estuary to a river. There is a fairly high ridge or bank running along the shore. and Above that it is level for about a mile. Most of the town is built there. Behind that the hills rise very ha sharply like upper Davey Street. And the The residential quarters are all up in that part and have a splendid view everywhere.
I have never seen a place built quite like that one. It is what I should immagine Colombo is like, a real tropical town. The people there live as if they were in a hot climate and not like Sydney. The vegitation is the first thing that strikes you. Palms everywhere, along the streets in gardens etc. There The chief tree is a very big bush one like a big Morton Bay Fig with very large light green leaves. The vegitation looks more like New Zealand than Australia. In the centre of the town is a little Square nearly as big as Franklin Square, on one side is a tremendous block of buildings. You will see it in the books of views I sent you. It is four times as big as the Equitable in Melbourne, to much larger in every way than any building in Australia, built Bu of stone halfway up with a concrete to top. On the other side is the post office, not a wonderful building, the Military headquarters, and other large buildings.
Oh. bye the way that big building contains is all the Administrative offices town hall, printers etc. on a third side is the Municipal Swimming bath, like the one at Christchurch (to be continued)
This letter is getting too big so will start another envelope it doesnt cost anything.
Letter continued – Friday
But what is so peculuar about to the place is the way the buildings ha are designed. Everything, shops, hotels & houses are built as long low bungaloes. They are largely made like arcades with little gardens all round. To The shops are mostly like shops in an arcade but the arcades are beautiful all paved w with coloured slabs in designs and supported by columns of different shapes. Th No roofs are of glass, usually tyles and mostly very low so you can almost touch them.
The houses are all long low buildings with flat roofs and very wide verandahs all round, and all ways plenty of pillars. All the houses are built either of white stone or red brik & white bricks. The teers of wht white houses, set in beautiful gardens and lawns back on the side of the hills look very pretty. They have a few tram lines there, double deck trams like ours, except not so large. We
We marched up to the Post Office and dismissed there. Everyone was pretty tired then. All hotels were cl closed to soldiers without a permit. Only officers got a permit. I will send it back to you when I have finished with it, a weird & wonderful blue pap card half English half Dutch like all their placards stating that I. me Could be sold one drink at a respectable pub, and no more than one & none if not sober & I had to consume it on the premices, etc. etc. There were The civil police looked to the carrying out of the regulations and not a single soldier was drunk. It was really a splendid thing and should be done in Australia.
In their camps they have wet canteens under proper Supervision & no soldier is allowed to get drink except there. It works wonderfully well. After the march must of us went to leave our cards, (words scribbled out) on the —– club which had invited us all to make use of its buildings. We got some “light refreshment”. It is a most beautiful place, right in the centre of the city. You reach it by means of a long succession of low pretty arcades with gardens down the centre & offices off them. The club was more like a big rambling stone var verandah than a building, and had a succession of stone terraces right down to the shore. After going there, about 3PM. Three of us hired a car and went for a run round the town for an hour. Then I a did a little shoppingg Shopping. There was very little I wanted, some bootpolish, metal polish, a lot of foolscap & writing paper & ink that was all. I found a very nice tea room & had 2 iced coffee & one iced fruit salad. The shops shut at 5 there. I then went round the town a little, saw the cathedral, a very small but pretty building.
I had to take the patrol in the evening but that entailed about as much work as City Patrol in Melbourne, but it came on to rain a little which made things still more unpleasantly n muggy. In the evening I had dinner with the Heritages & Clarkes at a rather nice hotel. I have never seen a building like it before. It was a succession of long wide verandahs covering as much ground as our garden. All the waiters were Indians of whom there are a number in the place. I spent the rest of the evening wandering about. There wasnt a single case of anything wrong in any way. The men behaved perfectly. At 11 those who to hadnt gone back to the boat had to fall in & were marched back. I followed with the patrol about half anhour later. There were no men on shore after 12.30.
The ship was wro rotten that night, sealed against coal & as hot as possible. I was orderly officer and so didnt bother going to bed. I curled up in a rug on deck so as to be at hand in case of any trouble between the soldiers and the blacks who were on board in hundreds working. The noise was something awful, coaling on two sides & all our own crains loading coal into the holds, blacks screaming or sh singing all night & a train ala along side on the wharf taking a delight in runn seeing if how many times it could run up & down that bit of wharf and how many times it could whistle when as it did so.
There were hordes of natives working at the coal the whole time we were there, yelling & singing, and making a hideous row. On. Next It was funny watching on the bossed, making them work. These were natives dressed something like a policeman with a pill-box on & a lot of buttons & medals all over. These would lay into men every now and then with a shamboe. I have always heard that Zulos & Kaffas were well built men but these we saw were very small, like Japanese, strong but very few taler than about 5 ft 6. They are just blacks from the back country. They come down quite voluntarly & get work for about a month then return to the Kralls till they have Spent all their money. They don live in quarters outside the town boundary.
On Wednesday it was raining hard. We had planned a route march in the morning as the authorities requested that no leave be given before 2.30. but we had to postpone it. The ship was to sail it 6P.M. so no leave could be given. It stopped raining in the afternoon and then men were taken for a march for about three hours. I was still orderly officer so I co didnt go, and wasnt very sorry. The orderly officer at a port has a rotten time, All running about & fixing things up. Orderly officer on bore board is not a job to be chased after not the soft thing it used to be in camp. To be continued.
Sorry something has gone wrong & I have forgotten how to stop this.
Friday
Letter continued
(pencilled in later: 9.3.17 between Durban & Cape Town posted at Cape Town)
We slipped out just after dark, all lights out, no smoking on deck after 7P.M. All ports blackened. Only a couple of lights in the passages and salons and, no lights near doors.
We are running along nicely again and expect to be ashore again tomorrow. Then no more ports, at any rate I hope not. The biggest trouble of the whole trip. I don’t know any more. No one works very hard to day on board and I dont think there is much to growl at. The men havnt yet got quite too bored. I dont think they ought to be atall unless we are delayed.
We are half way there now probably and havnt touched on half our subject matter. To-day the men are having a washing parade as it is the last time day washing can be done in fresh water as we are to be placed of on a ration of water of one gallon per man per day in case of emmergencies. There is always something to take of interest. Rumours spread like wild fire around the ship and everyone increases it them until they become quite amusing. One day we sighted a speck on the horizon & of course it was at once put down as, “the” submarine, it is always the, su someone got glasses & spoilt it by finding that it had sails. But it didnt take long to explain that as it was Monday that was only the washing hanging out on the periscope. Every boat is “the raider”. We have past several and always speak of them as raiders. Today a speck appeared on the horizon and someone was looking at through a strong teliscope. Just then Mr. Clarke came up & asked Mrs. Clarke if who was sitting there if she had seen his identity disc which he had mislayed. She hadnt and he jus had just said “I wonder what I shall do” when the officer who had the teliscope said turned around & said “Dont worry old chap she is only a hospital ship I can see the big red cross”. But we feel we quite safe and awfully important when we pass another ship.
We overhauled the hospital ship at dinner time, quite a big one with Tommys Tommies on board. We parade with liftbelts and waterbottles daily always, not because it is necessary but because to decrease the numbers of men who would have to run about the decks & ladders in case of accident. With the large numbers of men we must have it is necssay necessary to keep stairs, passages & decks a clear as possible. A good deal of fun has been caused by this washing parade. I dont suppose any of the men have ever washed (clothes) before. The popular was is to tie a long string bit of string and throw it overboard for a a couple of hours. Then put it under a shower bath. Some men are develloping into real washerwomen, and quite a lot are paying more extravigant mates to do their own washing. All the ladies are being dropped to-morrow and there will be wailing & gnashing of teeth. Ev Some people are very sad even now. I havnt seen much of any of them. Mrs. Clarke will be back in Australia I suppose as soon as this. I think all the rest are staying, for some time at anyrate. I must endeavour to put on the brake now or will be running over the edge & missing the mail, which closed 6 hours ago, but I know the censor.
I may write again but I hardly think I will be able to get it censored & into the bag. You certainly wont get any telegrams. If I am ashore & the shops are open I will send something to show where I am.
It is a long time since I heard from you.
Arndell.
(written on board R.M.S. Osterley)



